24 May 10 - Esperance

By Lou: We had hoped to camp at Cape Le Grande for a few days but we would have arrived too late at night so pulled into an Esperance caravan park instead. We were aware that a gale force storm was coming so for the first time in all our travels decided to set up the walls of the annexe for some protection. It was the best call we made because the weather got ugly and we ended up staying 12 nights all up due to protracted car repairs. Of course we would never complain about the rain, what with the drought and all. RACQ were fantastic and they quickly sorted a hire vehicle and covered our accommodation. We tried to pretend we were used to staying in 5 star hotels but the camper trailer gave us away so caravan park it was.

We used the camp kitchen each night (how exciting, an oven!) and befriended a WA couple, Margaret and John, who had also been delayed by car repairs. Margaret fitted me out with knitting needles, wool and a baby jumper pattern, part of a World Vision project to provide African babies with clothing. She also lent a sympathetic ear to my trials with Sam’s schooling. She made up a maths game for him and I appreciated her encouragement of both Sam and me.


We hired some DVDs to fill in our time and in between rain went fishing on the pier but didn’t have much luck. We also had a couple of nice day drives but by the end of our stay we were counting down the hours till we could continue our adventure.

















By Craig: Esperance, known for sun and fun, turned on terrible weather for 7 of the 12 nights we were there. During the sunny days of our stay we took time out to visit Cape Le Grande,

Orleans Bay and drive along the Great Ocean Drive. Taking in all the beautiful scenic bays and ocean landscapes,
watching waves crashing into the distant rocks and walking along boardwalks was both a pleasure and a way to forget the pending car repairs.
A stop here and there on a beach gave Sam a chance to play and Louise an opportunity to contemplate, well actually a chance to zone out from the boys in her life.






I had an opportunity to snap a couple of shots of unique indigenous flora.

Back at camp the wet had caused us to zip on the extension to our camper allowing us to spread out a little and stay dry. Hiring movies and camp kitchen chats kept us from going insane or at least madder than we already are.
The Esperance jetty gave me an opportunity to escape for a little while and throw a line in, not that I had much luck.
In fact with Sammy the sea lion swimming around no one was having any luck.
The vehicle repairs took a little longer than first thought as parts had to be ordered from the East. Once they had arrived A1 Auto spared no time and we were back on the road, thankfully.

12 May 10 – Kalgoorlie

By Craig: Kalgoorlie is a big town with a history of mining, with a claim to have the biggest gold mine in the southern hemisphere, the ‘Super Pit’.

First of all we had to catch up with new friends Tom, Audrey and their two boys Henry & Angus. The following couple of days included a few drinks to say the least, a day touring a couple of local areas with lunch at Ora Banda pub for Mothers Day and a visit to the Broad Arrow pub. We enjoyed great hospitality, many laughs and great friendship with the Leavers and as we parted it was a sad thought that we may not see them for a while but we left feeling like we were a part of the family.

The things we do through life but what can one say about holding $750,000 of gold in your hands? Actually not much as for security reasons we shouldn’t mention names or places. Suffice to say that a certain person in the know (she knows who she is) gave us a golden (pardon the pun) opportunity to see first hand the pouring of a gold bullion. It is a fascinating process to watch and includes white hot temperatures and an acid bath. As I took hold of the product I could only imagine what Robin Hood might do at this point, but I remembered I was lousy at archery so I gave it back. Sam found himself the reciepient of a small 0.7oz piece of gold (lucky boy)

While in Kalgoorlie we visited the Mine Musium and went underground for a tour.


I also wanted to replace the trailer water tanks as stones had rendered the old ones useless. While I was at it I wanted to put a guard in place to protect the new tanks. Tom assisted with this providing ample conveyor belt rubber and more than a few handy tips.

By Lou: The greatest thing about catching up with travel friends Tom, Audrey, Henry and Angus was that Samuel could finally stop asking “Are we going to Kalgoorlie today?” which he had asked every day for a month since parting with the boys in Streaky Bay SA. We reunited as if we had known each other for years and had a wonderful few days together, as detailed by Craig.

At the caravan park Sam caught up with a friend, Bradley, who he had met at Ceduna. Bradley's family were relocating from Qld to take up work in the mine.

5 May 10 – The Nullarbour

By Craig: Ceduna, a diversion to the coast of 20 odd kilometres to Fowlers Bay, Jillah Rockhole and several stops taking in the Great Australian Bight found us across the Nullarbor. After our delay in Port Augusta we were on a fast track to Kalgoolie. Our trip across this vast open plain started in South Australia and ended in Western Australia with a short stop on the boarder for a vehicle inspection. No mate, I said, we don't have any fruit. OK, he said as he lifted the lid to the Waeco fridge. So these oranges are plastic, hey?. Well we did forget to eat them for lunch but thankfully he didn't ask to look in the pantry.
The bight as it suggests was sheer cliffs straight into the sea with the waves crashing into the edge of the Australian coastline with endless ferocity.
In some areas the sheer cliffs receded into a gentle slop but the Southern Ocean did not relent and wind carried salt spray for as far as one could see.







We took a break at the Nullarbour Service Station for fuel and of course an iced coffee (my addiction) and as casual as you like the local dingo paid us a visit.

A quick overnight stop at Jillah Rockhole was due to it being shown in the Camps 5 book as having a toilet. However when we got there I checked out the tin shed signed as ‘Toilet’ and realised I wasn’t seeing things: no door and only 1 & ½ walls with a bowl packed so tight with dunny roll a flee couldn’t get through the gaps.
Yep out with the shovel!!

The final section, or close to it, was the 90 Mile straight. Yep not a bend, literally bloody straight as a dye and by the time you get to the end you’re glad to see a curve in the road.
Finally, we arrived at Norseman, the intersection at the end of the Nullarbor with an easy decision: north, as we were hoping to catch up with some friends in Kalgoorlie.



Getting great family shots is never easy with a 7 year old prankster but thankfully sometimes we’re lucky enough to get one back, thanks Mum!












Norseman also has the unfortunate stigma for me as it provided an opportunity to open an email forwarded to us by the Coroner’s office regarding Kyle’s death. Nothing outside of the norm or different to my original understanding, although the word understanding is a gross overstatement as my status remains in total disbelief. The report did however place a perspective on time lines confirming events leading up to and post incident and provided some insight to Kyle’s state of mind.




By Lou: Although it wasn’t Craig’s preferred route to WA, I was pleased we had the opportunity to travel the Nullarbour, just to tick one more thing off the bucket list. I had anticipated it would be boring and lifeless but again I was mesmerised by the changing landscape. Granted it must get boring for those people who have done upwards of 15 crossings but for a novice it was good. For one night each we stayed at Ceduna, Fowler’s Bay, Jillah Rockhole (roadside stop) and Norseman. By the end of it we were sick and tired of the setting up and packing up each day. Our rig is ideal for a 3 week holiday in one place, but time consuming for the overnight touring.

We stopped in at the whale watching centre at the Head of Bight but knew we were a tad too early for the season and didn’t see any whales but the cliffs were magnificent.

It was at Norseman that we got mobile reception for the first time in days and after Sam was tucked into bed we stood gravely in the chilly night in front of the laptop and opened the preliminary Coroner’s report into Kyle’s death. It provided us with a little more detail about the hours before his death but overall our reaction was incredulity that we should be reading such a document. Despite seeing it in black and white it is impossible to accept that we will never see Kyle again.

2 May 10 - Gawler Ranges National Park

By Craig: Our change in plans gave us an opportunity to go into the Gawler Ranges. Lou had expressed an interest in this area but our previous plans had not provided the time to travel this area. I was slightly nonplussed about the area and so was Lou after arriving at camp. My opinion started to change once we started in on the 4wd track to the camping area. This could be alright I thought and the scenery wasn’t that bad either.
Once at the campsite it was a quick set up with an opportunity to have a camp fire. Nothing better I say and with dinner cooking it was time for drinks while we sat back and admired the flickering flares. Flickering what? Was that…? Did that look like…?
Much to our surprise we sighted little grey mice scurrying across the ground, up onto the inside of the vehicle wheel and then up onto the cross member and into the motor. Shit! We quickly remembered a remedy suggested to us by others back at Perlubie Beach
I started dusting baby powder around each wheel and over the inside of each wheel rim, that’ll fix em!
We sat back enjoying the quiet in front of the camp fire and watched the little grey blighter’s run straight through the powder up on to the rim and into the engine bay, bugger but at least we could track them now by following their footprints.
I did come across an interesting sight a little later the next day while looking over an historic dwelling.
Apparently or as best as I could figure one greedy little grey mouse had stuck his head down the centre of the plug hole in an old bath tub and got it stuck, Ha!! I thought sweet justice.
An attraction of the Gawler Rangers is the Organ Pipes. After a short walk through scrub a rocky structure appears depicting, as the name suggests, the pipes of an old church organ.

All in all I think the aea desrves further exploration and possibly after rain.

1 May 10 – Port Augusta again

By Craig: To be back in Port Augusta again via Coober Pedy was not how it was intended to be. The trip back did provide an opportunity to assess the area in which the 'Flash for Cash' had apparently snapped my picture. It turns out the Stuart Hwy starts with a 60 zone and has a tiny road sign depicting the speed limit only on one side of the vehicle. Both Louise and I thought we had entered an 80 zone and therefore $350 later and an Oh-I'm-so-sorry reply to my objection letter we are a little poorer.
However in an attempt to make the best of a bad situation I suggested we complete some maintenance on the vehicle and ordered some new shocks for the front end suspension and booked the vehicle in for the standard oil and filters service.
The chap (whom shall remain nameless) was all obliging over the phone and seemed to have a handle on the requirements of the Toyota. My confidence in him was gone when after delivering the vehicle to him at 8.30am I returned at 10.30 with very little done, parts still needing to be found and needing a time lapse camera to actually capture his work movement. At 2.30pm the bill equalled my frustration however we were a captive audience with no other option, what could we do? That was how I was feeling after a succession of issues but in the chap’s defence we did ask him to work on a Saturday (not his normal working day) and at short notice, so on the other hand we were grateful for his availability.

Not all was bad as after speaking to Peter who sold and installed our HF radio, took immediate steps to rectify the fault (see previous blog note). We were directed to a gentleman who was in his own right a very experienced technician in communication including HF radios. After confirming my thoughts regarding the fault it was established that the terminals within the power connection box had separated enough to arc and short out the channel memory. Very quickly the fault was rectified and a new program was uploaded, all fixed and reassurance that the matter would never be repeated thanks to a couple of cable ties.

Note: Cable ties in various lengths in addition to gaffe tape (grey) are essential items for the traveller’s tool box.


By Lou: Thrilled to be back at our fenced compound of a caravan park…not. While Craig sorted out car repairs, Sam and I did some teeth pulling, er I mean schooling. As a surprise for Sam we took him to the new Iron Man 2 movie, under the guise that we were going for a drive to watch the sunset. He had thought it a bit tough that he had to hurry up eating his dinner just for a boring old sunset but he was so surprised he was close to speechless which is highly unusual.

28 Apr 10 – Anne Beadell Highway

By Craig: Finally we were here. I had read about it, watched and learnt about it on DVD & had heard stories and now as we left Coober Pedy and travelled west with all our parks permits and original landowner passes we were about to head out on the Anne Beadell Highway, something I had been looking forward to and preparing for, for some time.
Being a solo vehicle we had all the gear and usual bells and whistles for this sort of track, stacks of fuel, water & food.
We travelled approximately 80kms for the first night, set up camp and started a fire. It had rained a little but it was peaceful and the night sky was bright as the cloud disappeared.

Moving on the next day we set our target for 200kms which would see us pass through Taralinga National Park. A point of interest was the dog fence constructed to keep dingos out of the park; we had to divert along the fence 3 kms or so before finding a gate and back the same distance to the road before we could continue. We also had the opportunity to see the original survey markers laid down by Len Beadell and his team as they forged the Anne Beadell Hwy.

Unfortunately a little short on luck, 200k's or so later the HF radio decided to short out and leave us with no communication. Options, only one really as when you’re travelling as a single vehicle and with a young family you tend to think safety first.

As it happens whilst looking over the trailer I also found that a shackle bolt had broken into three parts (guess which spare part I didn't have) but necessity being the key to invention I was able to use a pin from the boat rack and a U-bolt as a washer to fix this little problem.
Well it wasn't to be on this trip although what we had seen was so beautiful and would certainly encourage us to return, we simply could not continue with no radio communication.
As I watched my journey across the Anne Beadell slip away I thought to myself, the track is dry although very corrugated and if not for the failed communication 4 to 5 days we would have seen it through, Bugger!

Only one thing to do I said to Lou ‘before returning to Coober Pedy lets spend a day or two just relaxing trackside and taking in the atmosphere, cook up some sultana damper and have a beer’.


By Lou: I have to admit I was nervous about doing this part of our trip, really our first experience at remote outback travelling. We anticipated it would take 4 – 5 days to travel 800kms until the first fuel/water stop and expected we would be lucky to see 2 cars in that time. (As it turned out, we passed our first vehicle on Day 4.)
From there we allowed another 5-7 days or so to reach Neales Junction and turn south onto the Connie Sue Highway to make our way down to Cocklebiddy on the Nullarbor. Again, not expecting to meet much other traffic. The track was notorious for breakdowns so we also had to allow enough supplies in case we got waylaid by mechanical issues for several days until help happened by. My beautiful husband had jumped through hoops to meet my safety standards and I finally had to admit I couldn’t conjure up any more excuses, it was time to do it.

We set off from the caravan park to top up our water supply from a town water station (20c per 30 litres). We could not believe our eyes when water started leaking out of one of the recently repaired tanks. There wasn’t time to do anything about it, so back into town to buy a couple of jerry cans and then back out to the tap to fill up. Of course, we are packed to the hilt so it took a good few hours to repack the roof rack to Craig’s satisfaction. Incredibly my informed suggestions from the ground weren’t deemed helpful. Off then to fuel up. Then a call to the police station to get the latest track conditions report. We were told to expect rough track, take plenty of spares and lots of water (yeah, we knew that). There hadn’t been any rain so we’d be fine in that regard. That was good news. Right! So it’s afternoon now but let’s get the journey underway.

Craig’s mood lightened the closer we got to the start of the Anne Beadell Highway. He had been waiting for this for ages. The going was pretty slow with corrugations kicking in pretty much from the start. After 80kms and at around 4:00pm we found a clear patch of dirt by the side of the road and pulled over to make camp for the night. As I was getting out of the car, Craig ambled up to me and said, ‘I don’t want to panic you but I just noticed the second water tank is leaking’. Panic? Me? In a desert with low supplies of water? You must have the wrong Nervous Nelly. It must be in the way I clench my jaw or perhaps purse my lips or even don’t speak for ½ hour that he picks up the vibe that I’m not happy. So he makes a herculean effort to remain perky and positive and launches into lighting a campfire. He’s even keeping up the jollying act when the heavens open and we are showered with the rains that weren’t supposed to be there. (This is not the first time we have kicked ourselves for not hiring ourselves out to farmers to bring on the rain. You want rain? Well the Newsomes have arrived so pull out your umbrellas.) So now my concerns flip 180 degrees from lack of water to being stuck in mud for 3 days.

We are now at silent loggerheads: Craig is so happy to be on the track that he’s not going to let anything get him down and I am thinking of every worst case scenario. After a suitable time of moping I pick up my dummy, got dinner going and accept that we are safe and make a bargain with myself that I won’t worry about what may happen until it happens. Besides, Samuel is super- tuned to my reactions and I don’t have the energy to fob off his questions about me being worried. The shower didn’t last too long but it did literally dampen the enjoyment of the fire and the curtains stayed shut on our long anticipated star lit desert night.

Despite the turmoil of the day I slept peacefully and when I woke in the morning I was surprised we hadn’t been disturbed by wildlife. The beauty of the early morning night helped shed the foreboding I had felt the day before and I appreciated the physical surrounds as well as the peacefulness. We departed camp at 9:30am after a radio sched on our HF radio. Very bizarre having an airways conversation with someone as far away as Albany WA but also reassuring.

We travelled along anywhere between 5kmh and 40kmh, taking it easy over the endless corrugations for the sake of the trailer. Over the noisy rattle and shake of the car I read aloud one of Len Beadell’s 6 books that we had purchased at Woomera. Len was an absolute legend and he and a faithful crew of about 4 were responsible for making the very road we were travelling on and it was brilliant to be witnessing the same terrain and milestones that he details in his book. Here we are hooked up to all the modern technology and he talks of taking his wife (Anne) and infant daughter (Connie Sue) in a Land Rover for a 5 month stint along the road as it was being made back in the 50s. Although it’s great the roads were named in honour of those intrepid family members, calling them highways is drawing a very long bow.

We only travelled 120km all up that day and still managed to clock up: a flat battery on the laptop containing our topographical maps and GPS marker; Sam’s bike hanging onto its holder by only a thread; the mouthpiece of the UHF radio bouncing off its holder and falling into 3 pieces; a bolt fundamental to holding the tyre to the axle on the trailer falling off and the piece de resistance…the HF radio lost all programming and died.

Needless to say by the time we pulled off the side of the road to make camp that night Craig’s jolly act was nowhere to be seen. He was soooooo frustrated. I had actually been so pleasantly surprised by the beautiful scenery that I genuinely regrettably agreed we needed to turn back. Most of my paranoia about safety relates to the fact that we are a single vehicle and if something were to happen to my chief engineer, mechanic and weightlifter, we would be up the proverbial creek. So with the inability to holler for help should the need arise, we followed Murphy’s Law and turned back to Coober Pedy. Unfortunately repairs couldn't be carried out there so we headed 540km south to Port Augusta.