12 April 10 - Fitzgerald Bay (Whyalla)

By Craig: A long dirt road from Whyalla found Fitzgerald Bay, a quiet picturesque place with a free camp location on the beach with toilets. I took an opportunity to venture further along the dirt road while Sam & Lou worked through routine school matters. The opportunity provided a chance for a stroll along a stony beach and a couple of quick photos.

Camp was a reasonable sized area able to fit approx 12 or so caravans and campers within the area. As always there was a camping community and conversation of past travel both good and bad provided light entertainment.


A day out in Whyalla saw us visiting a naval ship called ‘Whyalla’ which was commissioned for duty in the 40s. I enjoyed the tour and an opportunity to look over the vessel, the moment also reminded me of my dad and his naval history through his service time on the HMAS Sydney.

The 3 day stay is over and our sights are now set on Port Augusta in preparation for our travel north to Oodnadatta.

As usual Sam had his radar on for sounds or sight of any children and it just happened that the day before we were leaving his wishes came true and he spent the day racing around with Emily. Emily was a seasoned traveller and she and Sam clicked within seconds of meeting.

8 Apr 10 - Coffin Bay

By Craig: Coffin Bay provided time to resettle as a solo travel family after being a part of the Perlubie Beach community.
As we left Perlublie not sure of what direction to take but understanding a wait would be required to head north, due to rains, south east to Coffin Bay and then on to Whyalla looked good on the map. We would be completing a reverse triangle trip of the Eyre Peninsular however this would provide a couple of spots to stop for a few days whilst we waited for the track to Oodnadatta to reopen. North east region of South Australia had copped approximately 5-6 inches of rain and most roads and tracks around the area were either cut by water or impassable due to water damage.

At Coffin Bay a local walking track and a visit to Port Lincoln
assisted in taking our minds off future plans. The stop provided Sam another opportunity to seek out children and to occupy the time playing.

1 Apr 10 – Perlubie Beach, Streaky Bay

By Craig: After leaving Morgan, Lou and I quickly discussed our next port of call and Easter at Streaky Bay sounded fantastic. We knew our new travel friends Tom and Audrey were heading to Perlubie Beach just north of Streaky Bay and that further encouraged us as it would provide us with adult R and R and an opportunity for Sam to catch up with Henry and Angus again.

To get to Streaky Bay an overnight stop at Kimba was required. Kimba has a great little rest stop, big enough for a dozen traveller's and a toilet. But wouldn't you know it, a couple of galahs showed up at the local tourist attraction.

Lou googled Perlubie Beach so we knew of the town's location but not exactly where the campground was so at times like this, ask a local! Directions were given and we arrived at the free camping spot at Perlubie Beach with some surprise as we were ahead of Tom and Audrey. On arriving we knew of Tom and Audrey's friends, Hank and Sue, who they had spoken highly of due to their experiences together in their northern travels some months earlier. It was only a small campground, in fact really a large car park, so we quickly identified Hank and Sue and set up camp leaving room for Tom and Audrey.

We did a day's drive around the area and some of the highlights were High Cliffs, the Granites
and viewing the sealions at Point Labatt but the storm we experienced at Point Labatt took honours for the day.











Further in our travels as we tagged along with the storm I grabbed a photo opportunity after waiting for quite some time in an open paddock and I finally got the shot with the pelican on the abandoned cart wheel with the lightning strike behind. After several shots one extremely close crash of thunder and overhead bolt of lightning sent me scurrying back to the car.

For me, Perlubie Beach presented a fantastic opportunity to fish for King George Whiting, introduced me to razor fish and I learnt to catch and prepare squid which tastes fantastic BBQ'd with a bit of salt and pepper. On one occasion Tom and I ventured out in his boat for a couple of hours and during our time out we were accompanied by a dolphin across our bow wave but unfortunately no whiting were to be found so we headed home with 'only' calamari to look forward to. As each days fishing closed it was great having 5 o’clock drinks with the rest of the occupants of the campground who I would be delighted to meet up again with during our travels. 'Cheers'




By Lou: We are officially a quarter of the way through our journey now and can’t believe how quickly it’s flown. We’ve got a lot of miles ahead of us but we’ve loved everything we’ve seen so far.

We left Morgan with a view to get to Streaky Bay before the Easter hordes diddled us out of a campsite and to get a chance to camp with the Leavers again. We had only arrived at Perlubie Beach on Easter Thursday and were duly invited by the resident campers to join in a sumptuous seafood luncheon under the pergola on the beach for Good Friday.
We had curry razor fish, BBQ crab, boiled crab, battered barramundi and calamari rings and BBQ'd whiting. It was just amazing to be catered for as almost strangers and to know the produce came directly out of the waters in front of us. What a welcome.

The ensuing week was one of the most relaxing we have had to date. I'm not a keen fisherwoman but I enjoyed a couple of days of hunting and gathering. In the morning we pottered (as you do with a 4HP tinny) over to one side of the bay and went searching for our bait, razorfish. Then it took a couple of hours to prepare them: cracking the shells, writhing around the slimy guts looking for gonads for bait and then cutting out the 'heart' for cooking up (tastes like scallops). Next step was to head out to some sandy patches and try out the bait with the King George whiting and Voila! we bagged a few of those. When we'd caught enough for the night's meal we pottered back over to the rocks and trawled for squid and Voila! entree was sorted.

As much fun as I had I admit it was in perfect weather conditions. We headed out one day in a bit of a chop and I wasn't keen on the swell or the water sloshing into the boat. Our friends stayed close by in their sturdier tinny but the poor old motor was struggling too much. Craig turned us into shore about 2km short of our destination and I hitched a ride back to pick up the car to return and tow the tinny home. As I pulled away in my 'taxi' Craig and Sam started walking parallel to the shore, pulling the tinny along behind them. They reminded me of the movie 'Up' where a grumpy old man and a lonely boy scout drag the man's house behind them with balloon strings.

It was wonderful to watch Sam play with his peers, making great use of our maths Unifix blocks as weapons, and an abandoned shelter as an army base. The three boys played constantly together and slept like logs at night.

What didn't sleep at night were dozens of field mice, and nor did Craig after one furry friend ventured between his knees in the middle of night. Initially he thought it was the loving advances of his wife (soooo likely at 3am) but was then revolted to realise the mice were in our bed! Further investigation found more in the tent so next day there was a trip to the local hardware store where we bought out the sticky pad mousetraps, known by all the campers as 'sticky dates'. They are actually quite revolting as they may stop the mouse in its tracks, but then the helpless squeaking starts and wads of fur are removed in their efforts to escape. Each morning there was a burial procession from each campsite. Craig solved the problem of access by gafftaping openings to the tent but to top it off we discovered they'd made themselves resident in the car and we were unable to get rid of them as they seemed to have too many places to hide.


In one of our drives we came across a small seaside town called Sceale Bay and were quite taken by its simplicity. I was particularly impressed with the materials and workmanship of the public toilet which seemed disproportionately grandiose in comparison to the other facilities in the area, ie none. I must say, it has been the only toilet with a view I've seen since looking over Melbourne from the toilets in the Sofitel Hotel.

30 Mar 10 – Morgan

By Lou: Craig was keen to do some fishing on the Murray River in SA as it’s a favourite destination on the Victorian side. So we headed north hoping to find somewhere nice. There are a series of ferry crossings the whole way up which are free because they are part of the national road network so we ‘sailed’ across the Murray a couple of times. We drove for most of the day and were amazed at how different the riverscape was compared to Victoria, with the exception of the low levels they are both experiencing.
In particular, it was common for one side of the river bank to be metres lower than the other, resulting in steep cliff faces on the higher side. We ended up doing an overnight stay at a freebie campsite near Swan Reach, having failed to find anywhere suitable for a longer term stay. Next day we had a look around Blanchetown, where Lock No. 1 is situated (we had seen Lock No. 10 at Wentworth Victoria) and contemplated buying the local post office which was up for sale purely because we loved the sandstone building.

We arrived at the cute riverside township of Morgan by lunchtime. We had a picnic lunch at a park by the river and while Sam played with some kids on the play equipment we tried to work out where we might stay. From Morgan the Murray heads east to Renmark and we weren’t keen to head in that direction. We got chatting to the father of the other kids in the playground and mentioned we were looking for some free camping for about 4 nights. He kindly offered the use of his property but it was 150km away and not on the Murray so we let that one slide. Later, still at the playground, as we were winding up a conversation with some NT camper trailer owners, a fellow wandered over and started inspecting our boat rack. He and his wife had been having lunch at the pub overlooking the park when they saw us pull up (an hour or so earlier). He wants to manufacture something similar for his own boat so was keen to look ours over. He and Craig got chatting and free camping came up again. As luck would have it, he knew a great little spot (not free but at $10 per night still the bargain) near where he moored his houseboat, about 10km up the road near Pelican’s Point. Job done.


It was day 2 by the river when Craig was fishing from the bank and I heard a yell come from far away and then Craig respond in kind. I thought he was having a go at someone he’d possibly encountered the previous day whilst out in the boat, but lo and behold a houseboat started veering off course and head over to the bank. It was the Leavers (who we’d met at Kingston) who had just hired a houseboat for 3 days as a last hoorah for their holiday. Tom had spotted our car and then Audrey got out the binoculars and when she saw the scruffy looking bloke on the riverbank with a thick beard she confirmed his suspicions. Yes, it’s Craig! So with great excitement at our chance meeting we all jumped on board and excitedly caught up on all of 3 days absence and enjoyed dinner together (what else can I do all day on a boat except cook, say’s Audrey).
They moored the night in front of our campsite and next morning we all went for a sail in search of fish before they dropped us of and continued on their way, promising to return in a couple of nights’ time.



Next time they dropped by we had a campfire roast dinner and another great night.




By Craig: On the road to Morgan we passed through Mannum and by chance we arrived just as a beautiful old paddle boat departed for a river cruise. The Murray River in time gone by was a river boat highway, it was great to see one of the old ladies of the river in action. Onto another river town Murray Bridge, a town worthy of a little more time however we drove on through as time was getting away from us if we were to make Morgan allowing for reasonable time to set up before night.
After the chance meeting with the local farmer providing the opportunity for a good riverside camping spot it was great to get back to some bush camping, open fires and fishing on the Murray. I took the oportunity to snap a 'Mother & Son' perfect fireside moment photo. Bugger. Photos and children - I should have known!
A surprise moment was watching in the distance, a houseboat cruising along the Murray & thinking what a great time they’d have and then hearing shouts “It’s them“ and to our surprise Tom, Audrey, Henry and Angus crossed our path again. The meeting led to great conversation, a little bit of drinking and an opportune moment to watch Tom do a swan dive into, followed by a lightning quick exit, out of the fire (possibly helped by a couple of red wines). Although we had some laughs at Tom’s expense the seriousness of the matter was realised in the morning when he appeared with a piece of stick still in his neck We all promised to be a little more careful next time.
Another great catch up and we parted ways with a suggestion that we might catch up in Streaky Bay.

25 Mar 10 - Kingston

By Lou: Really enjoyed our 4 days in Kingston. Our campsite in the caravan park was beachfront (if you don’t count a 2 lane road in between) including an expanse of grassed foreshore for Sam to run amok on within our sight. Craig got his fishing rods fixed and took Sam fishing while I hired and watched the movie ‘The Reader’ back at camp and savoured the peace. Good flick too.


One afternoon when we’d returned to camp, Sam’s eyes widened at the sight of two boys emerging from the campervan set up next to us. Immediately Sam asked if he could say hello and within seconds he’d caught the eye of the youngest and crouched down into mock attack position, just like Molly our dog does when she sees another dog to play with. Angus giggled and we couldn’t separate them for the rest of the day. It turns out Tom, Audrey, Henry (11yo) and Angus (8yo) are at the 11th hour of their year travelling around Australia and now heading home to Kalgoorlie WA. We all clicked and had a good chinwag that evening and the next morning we all bolted over to the beach when we saw a pod of dophins frolicking along the shoreline. We were a bit late with the camera but the boys quite liked the opportunity to have a splash themselves. When our new friends departed the next day we exchanged contact details, sorry to see them go so soon.







By Craig: Kingston provided a good chance to relax, get the rods fixed and do some beach fishing along the Younghusband Peninsula. The photo here I called 'On the Beach' and entered into the ExplorOz 2010 photo competition along with 5 other photos.
Kingston was a lovely setting and I enjoyed a walk into town and the all too brief opportunity to chat with Tom and Audrey while the children played together.

It was great being able to chat with another guy who’d been doing similar travels and getting ideas and exchanging stories and unfortunately the following day we said goodbye as they made their way back to Kalgoorlie. During conversation I did note that they had mentioned that they were stopping at Streaky Bay to catch up with friends they’d met up north and also hiring a houseboat on the Murray as the finale to their trip around Australia.

22 Mar 10 - Beachport to Kingston

By Lou: Our intention was to find somewhere on the coast of South Australia to plonk for a week or so but we weren’t sure where to head. The park rangers at Naracoorte recommended Canunda National Park to camp so we headed there. Beautiful as it was, the campground was set a ways back from the water in the sand dunes and only had very small spaces so we kept driving. We spent one night at Beachport Conservation Park next to Lake George which was great as an overnighter but we were still searching for the ideal spot.

Lake George looked pretty low and unimpressive but an information board assured us that at the right time of year it is home to thousands of migratory birds and I can imagine transforms into quite a different landscape.

Not far from our camp Craig spotted a 4WD track and suggested we take it as an alternative to the highway to head to Kingston where he had been assured he could get his fishing rods repaired. “It’s just a couple of k’s and we’re there”, he assures me. So I jump in the back with Sam to start school and it quickly becomes too bumpy to do any schoolwork so we abandon that and enjoy the track. After about 20 minutes we are on an obvious track but Karen, our GPS, tells us we are in the water.
So we laugh at silly old Karen and continue on until we’re stopped in our tracks by a huge expanse of water, we deduce to be the joining of 2 lakes. I ask Craig to activate the hovercraft function, as surely that was one of the bells and whistles he brought in the months leading up to the trip. It quickly transpires that this did not happen (budget constraints he claims) and he will bear the weight of my disappointment forever. I, on the other hand rose to the occasion and swiftly produced some sandwiches, prepared earlier, and we munched and contemplated our next step.

After consulting a map we worked out where we may have missed a turn so backtracked. We continued on a peninsula for a few kilometres, with Lake St Clair on one side and the Southern Ocean on the other. Progressively the track became more and more narrow with lots of overhanging branches. Sam and I had to jump out on a few occasions and move boughs out of the way while Craig rocked the vehicle back and forth to tease the trailer through. We got through those snags and suddenly the track brought us to the foot of some sand dunes. I voted to turn around and find a bitumen road but if there’s one thing distasteful to Craig, it’s going back over old ground. So with a lump in my stomach we headed over a vast sand dune with just an inkling of which direction we should be headed.

We ended up on the beach and followed that north for a ways and then spotted an orange marker depicting a 4WD track so headed inland and followed the posts over hill and down dale. Craig was in his element. I was cranky because my school lesson was shot and we’d been bumping around in the back for 3 hours by now and we didn’t even know if there was an end to it all and even if there was, where would that be? I was kicking myself that I hadn’t dropped by the local information centre as I’m sure we could have picked up a map given there were track markers everywhere. Any way, after getting some directions from totally unexpected quarters (see Craig’s story below) we made it back to a main road to my relief and headed to Kingston Caravan Park.


By Craig: Beachport simply, as said by Lou, was an overnight stop. A drive into Beachport town centre found a nice cup of coffee but we really wanted to find “the spot” on the SA coastline so we had to move on. Looking for a little 4wd experience I encouraged Lou to head left not right and head off a track next to Lake George and we commenced winding our way along a scenic path until stopped by water. After lunch we backtracked and located where we had mistakenly turned off the track and we continued on to what I believed was a 4wd track to Kingston. The adventure of the day really started when Lou said "there’s a tree branch blocking the trailer going forward” and I said “well the car can’t go backwards because the tree branch is blocking that". So after moving the tree we looked ahead to what was a slow rise up to the top of a 10m sand dune At moments like this I think of Australia’s coat of arms symbolising the emu and kangaroo which can’t move backwards but not wanting to just bludgeon my way forward I decided to walk over the dune to see where the “track” went. As I got to the crest of what I thought was the only sand dune, I quickly realised that for as far as I could see, all there was WAS sand dunes and I thought to myself, “Bloody Lou would love this”. So I quickly returned back down the sand dune, chuffed “She’ll be right” and proceeded to deflate the tyres to approximately 20psi to aid in transversing over soft dunes.

As the day proceeded we ventured up and down over and around numerous sand dunes all over 10m plus and found ourselves following a 4wd track which eventually led to Nora Creina (but we didn't know that at this point). This was the beginning of a new problem, finding a place to get off the beach. So as we adventured on the beach, up into the dunes, back out of the dunes, along the beach some more, an exit off the beach appeared more elusive. By chance as we were reversing back from a sand dune which was way too high to attempt, Louise exclaimed “there’s people on the beach!” which to our surprise we had not seen on the way through. Although there were certainly people on the beach they were nudists which was confirmed as we got closer by Sam calling out “they’ve got no clothes on!”. Louise turned to provide Sam with a quick lesson in discretion as I wound down the window to converse with the couple emerging from the water.

Understanding that not only were they nudists but also foreigners they were unaware of a beach exit however I was directed to a camp 'just over the hill' to obtain more local information. So I quickly commenced tracking over the hill on foot and commenced a slow jog. Approximately 2km later I arrived at the camp. In my haste, what I hadn’t twigged to was that this would be a nudist camp and upon arriving I quickly sighted a gentleman standing in his caravan. Not sure of his name but let's just call him Long John and I asked for directions. In the back of my mind I was thinking 'please don’t stand up, just point the way off the beach. No! DON’T POINT!. Just tell me'. However, all was good, directions were given and I commenced my 2km jog back to the car. After arriving back to the car I advised Louise the way off the beach was just a little way ahead at Nora Creina. And we departed quickly as it was obvious the tide was on its return. Once off the beach, a quick inflation of the tyres and we were on our way to Kingston.

21 Mar 10 – Naracoorte SA

By Lou: Was exciting to be in another state, our 5th so far. We stopped at the first winery of the trip, Coonawarra Estate. I know you wouldn’t believe that but often (especially Tasmania) we’d drive past wineries on the way to some pre-planned destination and say “we should do that on the way home” but of course by 5pm upon our return they would be closed and no matter what time of the day it was, it was never going to be appealing to Sam. So we cut to the chase and bought a 6 pack (no room for the dozen) and consoled ourselves that that represented our sum total of South Australian winery visits.

Naracoorte Caves were great. Sam and Craig hated all the rules about not touching and not crawling through tunnels but despite that we all found them pretty impressive. We observed bats though live infrared cameras and walked through chamber after chamber of caves millions of years old.


The fossil exhibition was fun for Sam with lots of things moving and tunnels to legitimately crawl through.


By Craig: I found it fascinating that the caves had developed over millions of years and unfortunately as you toured around you can see where humans had broken stalagmites and stalactites. In fact, as we went on our tour the guide informed us that in previous times, around the 50s, the caves had been a popular picnic meeting place for families who had played cricket there, evidence of which was a
cricket ball stuck in a pocket in the roof. The darkness of the caves and filtered light also presented a challenge with the new camera. In general it was a good experience.